Foto: Yangykala Canyon (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Turkmenistan - The road to Balkanabat is a good one. Work is underway to widen the road, though why is unclear, as there is hardly any traffic. Both directions can easily use one side of the road during construction. Even when both directions are open, cars drive on our side because the asphalt is better here. This makes overtaking something to watch out for. The landscape is truly desert-like. As far as the eye can see, there is sand with occasional small patches of green. We also see the first camels roaming the desert. The road runs straight through it. In Balkanabat, the plan changes again. Our guide assumes we will now drive to Yangykala Canyon, stay overnight there, and drive back tomorrow morning. That sounds nice, but it means a very intense day tomorrow. The guide does have a tent for us. Our tent is attached to the car and cannot come along. We quickly gather some camping gear, load everything into the Toyota Pathfinder, and set off. At the bazaar, we buy some vegetables, meat, and bread for dinner. The road to the canyon is about 160 kilometers, but especially the last part is full of potholes. Chamrat tries to avoid them, but often doesn’t succeed. Sometimes he prefers driving beside the road in the sand rather than on the remaining asphalt. The surroundings become more and more beautiful. In the distance, we already see the white and red rock formations. Chamrat turns left onto a dirt road. After a few kilometers, we arrive at the top of Yangykala Canyon. The rugged rocks, red at the bottom and white on top, are beautifully lit by the setting sun. What a magnificent and special place. At the top, the wind is strong — too strong to set up our tents. A little way back there is a more sheltered spot. There is still wind there, but less intense. Just as we are setting up the tents, I hear a loud sound. It can’t be a camel. Yet shortly after, a camel pokes its head over the edge of the cliff and looks at us. It turns out to be a whole herd. More and more heads gaze at us. I estimate well over a hundred and fifty camels gathered. They are searching for something to eat as the sun disappears below the horizon. A beautiful combination. In our little camp, we prepare our food. There is something special about camping here, while for miles around there is not a single soul. Above us shines a magnificent starry sky. When I go to bed, the wind is still blowing. The outer tent flaps, and the wind occasionally blows underneath. I crawl deeper into my sleeping bag.
Sunday market of Ashgabat
Turkmenistan - On Sundays, the traditional Sunday market is held. In the past, this took place in the sand dunes at the edge of the city—a colorful scene of blankets spread out on the sand. Two years ago, the market was moved to new market halls, naturally built from ...
The ancient trading city of Merv
Turkmenistan - It is barely six o’clock in the morning when I am already on the bus. Bachtiar is our guide today. He has taken over from Maksat. He is a cheerful man. Unfortunately, he speaks German, which is not my preferred language. Today, I am on my way to Uzbekistan. ...
The ever-burning gas crater of Derweze
Turkmenistan - We quickly set off towards the gas crater. The road, by Turkmen standards, is good—a wide asphalt road without lane markings. Every now and then, the asphalt is cracked or has large potholes. We’re becoming quite skilled at avoiding the holes. As ...
Turkmenbashi’s Ashgabat
Turkmenistan - Through the large white marble buildings, the wide boulevards, and the expansive parks, the streetscape looks very similar throughout. From the bus, I see the 2x4-lane wide boulevard. White apartment complexes line both sides. In the median lie several ...