Foto: The entrance to the mausoleum of Imam Reza (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Iran - Once the weather clears, I continue to the holy shrine of Imam Reza. The shrine lies in the middle of an enormous complex, which has been expanded over the years to accommodate tens of thousands of worshippers. There are plans for further expansion, which would require the demolition of entire neighborhoods around the complex. I enter through the southern gate and deposit my camera at the check-in point – cameras are not allowed inside. I join the queue for entry. Everyone is thoroughly searched. After the security check, I find myself in a vast courtyard – I estimate it to be about four hundred meters wide. Hundreds of people walk across the square toward the center of the sanctuary. I follow them toward the holy shrine. Non-Muslims are allowed to visit the complex but are usually not permitted at the inner shrine. I pass through several gates. On the mosque courtyard, it's crowded. I see men removing their shoes, so I do the same and join the line going inside. I’m not sure if this is the entrance to the holy shrine. Inside, many men are preparing for the evening prayer on the floor. I shuffle forward in the narrow path that remains, pushed along by the crowd. I let myself be carried by the flow. As I enter the next space, I see to my left the holy shrine of Imam Reza – a four-meter-high golden tomb. A special moment in a special setting. Hundreds of people try to touch the shrine. I decide not to push forward in the crowd – just seeing the tomb is meaningful enough. I move along with the crowd and exit on the other side. Along the way, everyone touches the doorposts, and some even kiss them. I realize I am in the heart of a deeply religious complex, rich in tradition. Impressive! I arrive at another full courtyard. On carpets spread across the ground, people are already gathered for the evening prayer. I return to the large entrance square. Boys are busy rolling out carpets. Each carpet is immediately claimed by worshippers. The boys can barely keep up with the growing crowd. By eight o'clock, the entire square is packed – I estimate around ten thousand people. Inside the courtyards and buildings are thousands more. It’s a striking sight when everyone kneels in unison for prayer.
Alborz Mountains in Tehran
Iran - I quickly grab my daypack and place my main luggage in the depot. The bus is already waiting. The eccentric young driver—balding in front, long hair, and a goatee—navigates the traffic skillfully. He sounds a sharp whistle when cars get in the way. ...
Imam Square Esfahan
Iran - Back on Ali Iman Square, I find a bench to sit and write down my travel experiences. I don’t get much time for that, as I’m soon approached by Ali and Hossein, who ask if they can have a chat. We end up talking for over an hour about our trip, Iran, ...
Persepolis
Iran - At half past seven, we leave Shiraz on our way to Esfahan. But before we arrive there, we first visit Persepolis. Amin joins us on the bus specifically for this purpose. He is our guide for Persepolis – a young Iranian man of about twenty-five. In clear ...
The bazaar of Tabriz
Iran - The bus takes me to Tabriz in a few hours. Tabriz is a large city in the north of Iran, with a population of 1.4 million. The bus literally squeezes its way through the busy city traffic. Where there are three lanes, traffic flows in four—or sometimes ...
The desert city of Yazd
Iran - Back in Yazd, we get dropped off at Amir Chakhmaq Square. The Amir Chakhmaq façade takes a dominant place on the square. The building was erected in memory of Imam Hossein. Behind the façade begins the bazaar. Just before the entrance stands a wooden ...