Foto: The Rova Palace of Antananarivo (bron: Ronald van der Veer)
Madagascar - I walk out of the hotel and climb the long staircase to the Place de l'Indépendance. It’s busy under the trees on the square. From here, I can see the lower-lying center of Antananarivo. I see the bustling Analakely Market—a maze of parasols. I try to combine the walking route from the Lonely Planet with the one from the hotel. I soon lose my way and decide to simply follow the road uphill. Along the way, children regularly ask for money. I also see people literally sleeping in the gutter. The contrast between rich and poor is even more extreme here than elsewhere in Madagascar. I find it hard to ignore the children, but on the other hand, I can’t give to just one—dozens more would surround me instantly. Via a Protestant church and the Andohalo Cathedral, I reach the Ethnological Museum. The museum is housed in the former French consulate. The colonial building looks neglected from the outside. I assume the collection inside won't be much better and decide to skip it. A bit further on, at the very top of Antananarivo’s highest hill, lies the Rova of Antananarivo Palace. This royal building from 1625 was severely damaged by fire in 1995. Renovation is still ongoing. At the entrance, some boys push themselves forward as self-appointed guides. I’m not interested and walk around the palace on my own. From the balustrade, I have a stunning view over the lower city. I can see the center and Lake Anosy. A hazy layer of smog hangs over the city. At a local terrace, I order a Coke. With a Coke bottle, not much can go wrong. I have to pay 700 Ariary (20 euro cents). I look at the vendor in disbelief—shouldn’t it be more? She shows me the amount on the calculator. For the past three weeks, I’ve always paid two, three, sometimes four thousand for a Coke. I wander through the alleyways back down to the lower part of Antananarivo. Everywhere, I see old cars used as taxis—numerous Renault 4s and Citroën 2CVs. All vehicles appear reasonably well-maintained. These old cars are easy to service without complicated electronics. I’ve never seen so many Renault 4s driving together. Eventually, I end up at the Analakely Market. The market itself consists of covered stalls, but all around it are numerous street vendors. Everything imaginable is for sale. I’m amazed that everyone sells the same goods right next to each other. From the market, I walk onto Independence Avenue, a wide boulevard with greenery in the middle. Halfway down stands the city hall. At the end is the old railway station. This distinctive old building now serves as a luxury shopping center. In the garden next to the station is a restaurant. I decide to have lunch here. In the afternoon, I walk along the boulevard to Plaza de l'Indépendance and from there, past the presidential palace, to Lake Anosy. In the middle of the lake stands a memorial to the French soldiers who died in World War I. The walk back to the hotel is a steep climb.
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